Although all recreational activities breed distinct cultures specific to them, it seems the sport of surfing is particularly so. Much like the common surfing catchphrase, “Surfing is life; the rest is details,” and “Out of water, I am nothing,” said by the father of modern surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, there is something deep and mystical about this energetic ocean activity.

Here on Haida Gwaii, Kuuwakaa, or riding with the waves, is best said by those who live and surf here:

Chris Ashurst, Tow Hill

“I arrived on Haida Gwaii in 2002 on a contract and had a deep hope that there would be surf. Based on the location, I knew it was likely. But it was almost impossible for me to confirm because I couldn’t find any reference to it. I touched down in Masset, and as we approached I saw the most amazing break peeling off an empty, breathtaking point. I knew I had found somewhere special.

“When I returned with my truck and personal effects, including my clunky old War Board, I headed out along Tow Hill Road and popped into various spots in the woods. The waves were amazing, but since I was utterly alone, I had a bit of trepidation. I threw driftwood into the chuck to see if it would be sucked underwater and spat out heading to Alaska, but it just floated there, catching lovely waves of its own. I went to the end of the road and, deep inside my mind, I heard heavenly music playing as I saw a gorgeous swell pushing in and peeling into the river with the mist, eagles and the forest. I still have the small note I wrote on the back of a receipt that I left on my dashboard with my name, family contact, and when I intended to return... in case I just drifted off to Alaska despite my best efforts. Instead, I surfed all alone on the beautiful waves into the sunset. And I never left.

“Masset doesn’t have a pool anymore. But it has, in my mind, something better.

Crisp, clean, salt water washing over your face as the sun comes up. The surf community here is very family oriented...moms, dads, kids, random folks, and fires for those not surfing, and a very positive vibe.”

Kim Goetzinger, Xaayda kil (Skidegate)

“Boogey Boarding is one of the most invigorating activities that connects me with the ocean. You have to dig deep within yourself so as to not be afraid of our boiling ocean. The lessons I took from Mike McQuade and Lucy Neville helped me to face my fears of swimming in the deep ocean of Haida Gwaii. Injuries do sometimes occur, but it feels so powerful roaring in on your board, an then to be welcomed by foam all around you.”

Ian MacLean, Masset

“Surfing was one of the reasons why I moved to Haida Gwaii. There’s not very many people here and the people that are here are very friendly. That’s the main appeal. It’s being in nature. For me, the thing I love the most, apart from the ride which is for sure one of the best parts, is paddling out in the waves that are really big and hard to get through. It’s a noisy and hectic experience. You get ice cream headaches and you get ripped around by the waves, but then, you finally make it through the breaking waves. It has a certain serene quality on the back side. You then have time to catch your breath, collect your thoughts and just enjoy being out past the mayhem of the breaking waves.

“When you’re out there, there are sometimes sea lions and grey whales…last spring we had a killer whale come through the lineup. A bunch of us saw it come steaming up the beach - going quite fast - it was running parallel to the shore and went right through where we all were. We saw an eagle take out a gull one day and have seen hail and snowstorms too.

“Tips for newcomers: You really must try it to know what it’s like. Go to North Beach Surf Shop in Masset or get a hold of Mike McQuade and arrange some lessons. Surfing can be quite dangerous, and there are a few things you need to know before you get in the water.”

Christine Cunningham, Port Clements

“I learned to surf as soon as I arrived on Haida Gwaii. My husband had bought me a suit and put me on a board before I got to do anything else on island. I was instantly hooked. The sea is so powerful and it’s beautiful to let yourself be part of its environment. I sometimes hear people complain about winter storms and weather, but that weather is creating the ultimate playing field. Surfing is different than other sports – you don’t have registration fees, time slots or need to coordinate with a team. Surfers have to be patient, ready and willing.

“We try to make surfing and beach time a priority in the winter. It’s the place that brings out the best of all of us. I enjoy watching my husband in the water. He will paddle through the waves, get out way past the break and sit there, on his board staring out to sea. He is waiting for the perfect wave but also taking time to breathe it all in.

“My kids are learning how to balance play with fear; learning respect for the power of the ocean and, at the same time, have a healthy fear for it.”

Mike McQuade, Masset (owner of North Beach Surf Shop and presenter of the annual Expression Session Surf Festival)

“I’ve been around the water all my life. I started fishing with my father at the age of two, was a lifeguard for fourteen years, swam competitively for eight, and started seriously surfing twenty years ago.

“Surfing on Haida Gwaii is different than many other places because we’re so remote with empty expansions of beaches and waves. Our waves are fickle, they’re not here every day, but when they are, they’re world class. On average we have around 100 high quality days. Surfing is an all-island thing, East Beach, Rennell Sound and North Beach. I feel totally blessed to be able to surf for 3 hours, be totally exhausted, get out of my suit and pick up 25 scallops off the beach. How awesome is that?”

Gwaliga Hart, Gaaw (Old Massett)

“I started surfing back in my early high school years. I used to skateboard and snowboard a lot when I was younger, so it didn’t take long before my interests turned to the root of all board sports...surfing. Back then, all my summers through school were spent out at Duu Guusd (the west coast of Haida Gwaii) working at Rediscovery in T’aalang Stl’ang where we took the canoe and old kayak out riding waves whenever we had water time.

“To me, it was much more than catching waves, it was the experience of putting on this skin-like suit and being out in the ocean connecting with, and respecting, the greater forces that have always been, which our people have always talked about. Being filled with our different stories that tell about the many supernaturals and other beings created a whole different way of being on and in the water.

“Haidas have always been a water people; we’re island people with an extensive seafaring history. Certain types of our wonderfully crafted canoes had the stern end designed specifically for riding waves. So, wave riding, in the grand scheme of things, isn’t new to us. We have Xaad Kil (Haida language) terms for riding waves, reading set waves, the winds, the tides, the currents, weather watching; all knowledge that can be directly applied to surfing today.

“I came to understand that it is a continuation of our culture in many ways. Drawing upon Haida canoe design, I was inspired to carve and paint a cedar surfboard, which displays one of my clan crest figures in the bow and stern end of the board.

“The late Ts’inii Stephen Brown gave surfboards the Haida name Tluuwa Tl’apjuu, meaning Flat Canoe. I’m extremely stoked we have this as a ‘thing’ to further explore and experience on Haida Gwaii. It gets people back out on the land and in the water to rediscover places and continue building meaningful relationships with the different areas. I’m thrilled about the extensive work our people have been doing regarding Haida place names, as surfing holds a great opportunity to further learn these names and the accompanying insightful stories or characteristics about each place.”