Growing up on Haida Gwaii, my best memories are of our numerous camping trips. Taaw Tlldáaw Tow Hill was at the top of the list. I have two sisters and three brothers so this was no easy task. We used to camp at what was called the A-frame on the east coast.

We’d float on logs in the river, run over the logjams on the beach front, and hike. There was a lot of hiking! Twice we walked from Tll.aal Tlell to Taaw Tlldáaw. I sure remember the whining, usually me. Luckily my mother brought Baker's chocolate squares. We didn't buy sugar or sweet treats in those days so this was a rare occurrence. Laying on top of my sleeping bag I would hum softly as I devoured the delicacy. The obsession for chocolate has followed me into adulthood.

On other adventures, we would usually harvest what we could. There's a picture in a BC magazine of us clam-digging out there; I won't say the year, let’s just say it was before disco.

As a “mature woman” I realize now what a huge undertaking that was with six or more children. My parents made it look easy. I’ve only done it as a mom a few times and the laundry alone would keep me from doing many overnights. I mean I work so I don't have to be in a tent. (Totally kidding.)

I have eight children so a trip out to the beach was always an adventure. I would have to close my eyes at times while my budding mountain climbers would scale the rocks at the blowhole. I prayed a lot. However, the pure joy of seeing the happiness on their faces was worth the nail-biting moments.

The platforms and boardwalks were non-existent back then so we would find different ways up to the top of the hill. At times going down was a bit nerve-racking; my brother even had a dog fall off the side and survive. I'm glad they have a warning posted now.

Now that I am my parents' generation and my eight offspring are grown, going to the hill is usually therapeutic. In my life I’ve managed to learn some great tips for going out to this must-see attraction that our archipelago offers.

I’ll start where the pavement stops. And this is no disrespect to those maintaining the road; you could be out there every day and something would be amiss. I know it’s hard work and we appreciate it.

The road has either just been plowed or rained on, so it’s dusty or muddy. Keep your headlights on so we can see you through the thick dust or torrential rain. By the way, it’s not a bad idea to wear a sports bra or a mouth guard when you’re driving, just in case the crater-like washboard surface has worsened. We are very attached to the narrow tree-lined bumpy road, however. It makes people a little more careful. The preservation of the canopy is paramount. It’s been the same for as long as I can remember. The moss and fresh look of the forest make me feel like I’m entering a time warp where things around me have been untouched and protected.

When you reach the parking lot, please remember to back in and park close to other vehicles. This sure makes a big difference as it gets very busy during the spring and summer. And have lots of memory on your camera or cellphone!

Starting out you’ll come across picnic tables. And if you follow the Hl’yáalang Gandlee Hiellen River you’ll get some great shots of the Hl’yaalan Solstice totem pole. It was raised on Indigenous People’s Day in 2017 and stands where the original pole was in the 1800s.

As you head up the hill, the first platform has an incredible view of the beach and Née Kún Rose Spit, the place we passed on all our trips to the east side. The trail is breathtaking, both literally and figuratively. It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen! I always let people pass, mostly so they don’t have to watch me puffing half to death on my way up. From the top platform you can look out to the road you came on, as well as White Sands Meadow, Yaagun Yakan Point and the Hl’yáalang Wáaguusd Agate Beach campground. On a clear day Alaska will peek out over the horizon. The eagles and ravens might even come out and see who’s visiting that day.

On your descent, when you reach the fork, go where it says “Blowhole.” You’ll see some of the giant trees that nature has taken down and you’ll want to pose before the hollowed-out trunks. Near the blowhole you’ll become a child again, wanting to climb all the volcanic formations. Always pack an extra set of clothes or just live in the moment under the spray of the ocean coming through and over the rocks. You may get wet but you won’t be sorry!

If you’re really keen to get the most out of your stay, time your visit for when it’s zero tide. It will reveal sea creatures and rare shots of the hill from the beach. I cannot express how life-changing it can be!

Finally, take a moment on the seaside platform to read the Haida story of how Taaw Tlldáaw came to be. You’ll see why it’s such a vital part of Haida heritage.